In functional cosmetics, vitamin C exists in three forms. The first is active vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid vitamin C, which is present in three forms in functional cosmetics such as creams, serums and masks. The first is active vitamin C, L-ascorbate vitamin C. It is extremely unstable and is easily oxidized by exposure to air to produce dehydroascorbic acid, thus often causing yellowing of the product. For this reason, many cosmetics have turned to more stable esterified derivatives, namely magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl palmitate. All comparative studies on the stability of these three compounds have demonstrated that magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is the most stable in solution and emulsion.
Magnesium L – Ascorbic acid – 2 – Phosphate is essential for the synthesis of collagen, with deficiency resulting in scurvy.Notably, humans and other primates, guinea pigs, and certain other animals lack an enzyme necessary for vitamin C synthesis.1 L-Ascorbic acid 2-phosphate (AA2P) is a long-acting ascorbic acid derivative that stimulates collagen expression and formation and is used in human cell culture.It may be included in media to enhance the survival of human embryonic stem cells or increase the growth and replicative lifespan of human corneal endothelial cells.AA2P is also used to drive osteogenic differentiation in human adipose stem cells and in human mesenchymal stromal/stem cells.
Specification of Magnesium L-Ascorbic acid-2-Phosphate
|TEST ITEMS||SPECIFICATION||TEST RESULTS|
|APPEARANCE||WHITE TO PALE YELLOW POWDER||COMPLIES|
|PH(3% aq. sol.)||7.0~8.5||8.2|
|Free ascorbic acid||≤0.5%||0.30%|
|Color of Solution(APHA)||≤70||<70|
|State of solution(3% aq. sol.)||clear||clear|
|Loss on drying||≤20.0%||16.39%|
|Ketogulonic acid and its derivatives||≤2.5%||2.32%|
Benefits & Applications of Magnesium L-Ascorbic acid-2-Phosphate
Anti-aging studies have shown that when the skin is exposed to ultraviolet light, it produces reactive clusters (ROS) including peroxide ions, hydrogen peroxide, and atomic oxygen. These ROS are produced by causing direct chemical changes in DNA, cell membranes, and proteins, including collagen. Harmful effect. L-ascorbate Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant in human skin. This water-soluble vitamin has the effect of de-electronizing, neutralizing free radicals and protecting intracellular structures from oxidative stress.
2. The role of light protection:
MAP does not absorb ultraviolet light in the solar spectrum and does not act as an opacifier itself. However, it has a photoprotective function when used alone, and is more desirable when used in combination with vitamin E. Studies have shown that 15% L-vitamin C magnesium phosphate combined with 1% vitamin E has a better photoprotective effect. However, it is important to note that it must be used before UV exposure and reused 30 minutes after UV exposure.
MAP has an anti-inflammatory effect and has been used to treat various inflammatory skin diseases. Topical MAP on mouse skin has also been shown to be up to 30 times more potent than ascorbic acid as a tumor suppressor. Studies have also shown that MAP is effective in the treatment of acne, silver sputum and fat-free eczema. It has been reported that topical MAP can improve inflammatory rose acne, but no objective clinical research data have been found.
4.Anti-wrinkle, improve photoaging skin
MAP is generally used in cosmetics and is stable at pH neutral. It is a free radical scavenger and collagen-producing stimulator that can be converted to ascorbic acid across the epidermis. In in vitro studies using human fibroblasts, MAP and ascorbic acid have the same ability to stimulate collagen synthesis. A double-blind controlled trial of a 5% MAP cream applied to the neck and forearm of a moderately aging patient for 6 months was observed in the laboratory. It was observed that the deep wrinkles were significantly reduced, and the facial color and relaxation were also significantly improved.
L-Vitamin C magnesium phosphate has the effect of helping to dilute pigmentation. Studies have shown that MAP can inhibit melanin formation by tyrosinase and melanoma cells, and topical MAP cream can significantly dilute chloasma and freckles.